Socializing your puppy is an important step in helping him find his place in the world of people and other dogs.
A puppy naturally begins socializing within the litter. But once he's removed from the litter, it's vital the socialization process continues in his new environment.
You want your puppy to grow up confident and comfortable in his surroundings. Able to meet strangers without cowering. Playful and interactive with new dogs. Never aggressive when encountering an unfamiliar situation.
=== Introducing Your Puppy To New People ===
Your puppy is going to grow up in a world full of people. Interaction is a natural part of that world. Whether it's the kids next door peeking over the fence. Or the UPS deliveryman standing in the front doorway. Or friends who have come to visit.
You want your puppy to enjoy these encounters and take them all in stride.
By exposing him to as many different people as possible while he's still between 6 and 12 weeks of age you can help him socialize.
Invite friends or neighbors over to meet your new puppy. Have them kneel down to his level and offer him a favorite dog biscuit. Make sure they don't use any sudden movements that might frighten him. And make sure your puppy receives praise for accepting the snack. This will help discourage shyness and fear.
Take him for walks to the park or the pet store or about the neighborhood, where he can meet new people. If strangers ask to pet him, make sure you praise your puppy for his good behavior and for remaining calm.
Take him to obedience classes, where he'll be around other dogs and people. If your puppy appears to panic in the midst of all the activity, don't force the issue. You can always try again later. But make sure you don't reassure him if he's fearful, either. This will only reinforce the behavior.
Basically, you want to take advantage of every opportunity to expose your puppy to new people. Each new experience will contribute to his growing confidence.
=== Introducing Your Puppy To New Dogs ===
A puppy first learns to socialize with his siblings. This interaction helps him learn to inhibit his biting and develop self-control. It also helps your puppy to expend all that puppy energy, making him much less hyperactive and destructive around the house.
So what can you do to help him after he's left the litter?
Puppy kindergarten and puppy training are both good ways to keep him interacting with other dogs. A local puppy socialization class is also a good choice. Or you might try heading down to your nearest dog park, which is always a great place to exercise your puppy while he meets other dogs.
All of these outings should be fun, without any pressure on your puppy to perform. Let him interact with the other dogs at his own leisure.
If none of those work for you, see if you can find a doggy day care service in your area. You can drop your puppy off on your way to work and let him spend the day playing and interacting with other dogs until you pick him up on your way home. Once a week is fine. More often if you'd like.
Finally, if you already have an older dog in the house, often he'll provide all the play and guidance your new puppy needs.
=== Introducing Your Puppy To New Situations ===
The modern world is full of stimuli for a puppy. There are car trips, televisions, vacuum cleaners, door bells, crying babies, fireworks, trips to the vet, music and hundreds of other new experiences.
Expose your puppy to as many of these situations as possible. The more, the better.
As before, however, don't push him into these experiences. Let him deal with them at his leisure. And when he reacts with fear, don't give him the wrong message by comforting him. This only reinforces his fear and will make it more difficult for him to deal with other new situations.
Socializing your puppy should be a fun process. Keep after it diligently, and you'll have a calm, confident, and friendly family companion.

David Silva
Receive your free 21-page report on how to introduce a new puppy into your home when you sign up for our Dog Training Newsletter: Dog Training Unlimited


Super Cat Urine Prevention Tips
Many times cat owners are at a loss as to why their cat doesn't use their litter box. Here are some great tips that can help you solve the problem.
The litter box is the first thing you should check. It should be in a quiet, private area of the house. Many people put them in their basements and leave the door open a little as this not only creates a private environment but also keeps odors to a minimum in the rest of the house.
Some use a closet but if you do this be sure and keep the box clean to reduce odors in such a confined space and don't forget to leave the door open!
Another placement possibility is under a table. Many people find a place without carpeting is best from a maintenance point of view as tile or cement is a lot easier to clean.
Ask yourself if you changed the litter box in any way:
* Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?
* Does the box need cleaning?
* Is a new litter being used or does it have too heavy a scent (clumping and unscented is best).
* Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.
* Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.
* The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can be an issue for older cats.
Do not put food and water near the litter box. Cats like these two areas kept separate (don't you?).
If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room if you can or cover the target area with furniture.
Put a bowl of food over the target area as cats like to keep their eating area away from their "bathroom".
Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.
If you have more than one cat get each one of them their own litter box.
Have you recently moved? A cat might smell an area where the previous owner's cat urinated.
Let the cat alone while it goes so it can have some privacy.
If it is a new cat in your home it could take from three to eight weeks to get adjusted to the new environment. Be patient!
Was there a recent addition or loss to the family? A new baby, spouse? This is usually temporary until the cat adjusts to the change in their environment.
A change in your schedule can throw off your cat's schedule as well and cause problems. Try and phase in major lifestyle changes gradually.
NEVER EVER punish the cat by kicking, hitting, chasing, screaming or rubbing their nose in their urine (remember the smell doesn't bother them). Cats cannot make the cause and effect connection like we can so punishment after the fact is useless and will only make matters worse.
Cats are naturally very clean animals and they know where they are going. It is important to remember this and try and help your cat overcome any stress or anxiety they might be having in a caring and loving manner.
For expert advice on cat urine problems and solutions visit www.cat-urine-remover.com


Great Danes - Their Origin And Temperament
The origin of Great Danes, like that of many other varieties of dogs, is so obscure that all researches have only resulted in speculative theories, but the undoubted antiquity of this dog is proved by the fact that representatives of a breed sufficiently similar to be considered his ancestors are found on some of the oldest Egyptian monuments.
A few years ago a controversy arose on the breed's proper designation, when the Germans claimed for it the title "Deutsche Dogge." Germany had several varieties of big dogs, such as the Hatzrude, Saufanger, Ulmer Dogge, and Rottweiler Metzgerhund; but contemporaneously with these there existed, as in other countries in Europe, another very big breed, but much nobler and more thoroughbred, known as Great Danes.
When after the war of 1870 national feeling was pulsating very strongly in the veins of reunited Germany, the German cynologists were on the lookout for a national dog, and for that purpose the Great Dane was re-christened "Deutsche Dogge," and elected as the champion of German Dogdom. For a long time all these breeds had, no doubt, been indiscriminately crossed.
The Great Dane was introduced into this country spasmodically some thirty-five years ago, when he was commonly referred to as the Boarhound, or the German Mastiff, and for a time the breed had to undergo a probationary period in the "Foreign Class" at dog shows, but it soon gained in public favour, and in the early 'eighties a Great Dane Club was formed, and the breed has since become one of the most popular of the larger dogs.
The Kennel Club has classed Great Danes amongst the Non-Sporting dogs, probably because with us he cannot find a quarry worthy of his mettle; but, for all that, he has the instincts and qualifications of a sporting dog, and he has proved himself particularly valuable for hunting big game in hot climates, which he stands very well.
Respecting the temperament of the Great Dane and his suitability as a companion writers have gone to extremes in praise and condemnation. In his favour it must be said that in natural intelligence he is surpassed by very few other dogs. He has a most imposing figure, and does not, like some other big breeds, slobber from his mouth, which is a particularly unpleasant peculiarity when a dog is kept in the house. On the other hand, it must be admitted that with almost the strength of a tiger he combines the excitability of a terrier, and no doubt a badly trained Great Dane is a very dangerous animal.
It is not sufficient to teach him in the haphazard way which might be successful in getting a small dog under control, but even as a companion he ought to be trained systematically, and, considering his marked intelligence, this is not difficult of accomplishment.

About The Author:
Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about Great Dane training and care at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/great_danes.html